Installing MINI Cooper PowerFlex Gear Box (Transmission)

Bushing Inserts

After some mixed reviews on the forums I decided to try these out- they were cheap and fairly easy to install at under $30 and about 1 hour of time. Some said these bushings caused a LOT more NVH and just to do the upper and lower engine mounts while others felt they were fine.

Way Motor Works stocks these and he is a big proponent of PowerFlex bushings.

I already had the BSH street lower mount and TSW upper mounts so I already had a touch of NVH. I did not notice any additional NVH after installing these inserts, just a more solid feel. The best time to install these is when installing an intake since most of the R&R you do for that has to be done again, I wish I had known then what I know now

Standard Disclaimer: ANY USE OF THIS INFORMATION BY YOU IS AT YOUR OWN RISK. I ASSUME NO LIABILITY FOR YOUR USE OF THE BELOW INFORMATION.

Installation:

First step is to get the front of the car up on ramps or jack stands:

The plastic engine shield will need to be removed so that a jack can be used to support the transmission; two Phillips screw retainers will need to be released after removing three bolts up front with a 10mm wrench:

The jack in the 1^st picture above is supporting the transmission (not lifting it, supporting it- if you see the transmission or car start to lift you have gone a bit too far). I use a hockey puck to pad the jack:

Use a small screwdriver to release the clamp by placing in the space and twisting. It can be re-clamped using large arc-joint pliers. This same type of clamp is also used with the air intake hose and this process can be used there as well on the airbox side- no need to remove it from the throttle body:

The plastic intake tube is removed, it is pulled free from the lower airbox after the above clamp is undone and the tube removed from the intake scoop:

Remove the ground wire nut beside the mount- you will need some slack here to remove the mount:

Using a 10mm socket wrench and extension, remove the two bolts holding the fuse box in place:

Using a 10mm socket wrench also remove the bolt for the wire harness holder and lower airbox:

There is a wiring harness plug and holder next to the mount. You can just unclip the plug from the holder, I also elected to remove the holder to avoid breaking it and to provide a bit more room using needle nose pliers to compress the retainer ears and pull out:

I thought I might be able to workaround the airbox removal but that was not the case- go ahead and take it out after disconnecting the battery ground cable. If you need help with the airbox/ECU removal see my write-up for details http://www.billswebspace.com/MiniR53DDMCAI.htm :

Next up is the four bolts holding the mount in, removed using a 16mm socket wrench with extension(s):

The rubber inserts are thin and you might have seen that there was some airspace between the mount and these pieces. Remove them:

There is also a piece of plastic that need to be removed:

I had read these inserts were tough to install and since I had some Powerflex lube left over from past bushing installations (none came with these), I lubed the points that would be inserted in to the OE bushing:

The bushings are two different sizes, I put the smaller diameter on at the front and the larger diameter one at the back:

The mount is carefully slid back through the wires and over the new bushings- remember how the wires go and on which side of the mount they belong. Go ahead and start the bolt for the mount/bushing and run it almost up to the mount, not tight. The three remaining mount bolts are loosely installed and tightened to TIS torque specs (specs at the end of this write-up). You may have to use the jack to get the transmission and mount positioned just right so all of the bolt holes line up. All other reassembly is opposite of removal

1

2