the engine under-tray using a method with which you are comfortable.The method I used was to place a large
piece of cardboard on the floor under the tray and remove all the small
bolts from the sides and rear of the tray.Then the two larger hex (Allen) button head screws were removed and
the tray pulled slightly rearward and dropped onto the cardboard.Slide the cardboard out from under the
car with the tray on top of it and clean and place the tray somewhere
where it won’t get stepped on or damaged.
the car using the official lifting points B and C as shown in the
illustration below from the owner’s manual.If using a floor jack, jack up each side
of the car using jacking points A and place jack stands under the lift
points B and either C or D (using D will require removing the rear
examine the extruded aluminum frame openings on both sides of the car just
forward of the lower rear A-arms for any burrs or sharp edges using a
gloved hand.This is the place the
frame plates from the kit will be installed.The end of the frame is crudely cut off
to clear the forward edge of the A-arm and there can be many sharp
edges.Also check the hole in the
frame (where the mounting bolt for the frame plates will go) for burrs on
the inside and remove any sharp edges or burrs with a file that will cut
you or interfere with the sandwich plates fitting flat against the frame
the upper frame plates into the frame openings making sure to use the
plate with the cut out on the left hand (driver’s) side and with the angle
end following the cut of the frame.
in one of the 1 ½” flange head bolts through the upper frame plate and
frame hole so the threads are visible from under
the flat head hex cap (Allen) screws using a 5/16” Allen wrench on the
screw and a ¾” wrench on the nut into the countersunk holes in the lower
plates using the thin lock nuts to tighten them into place.
intend to leave the lift kit extension pins in place, it will be easier to
install them with the lower frame plate off the car so screw the pins onto
the lower plates now and tighten them in place with a strap wrench using a
bench vise to hold the plates (or other tools suitable for the job).A drop of Loctite
thread locker on the screw threads before assembly might be a good idea as
area of the frame where the rocker panel lip is glued to it by holding the
lower plate in place to see if it fits flush to the edges of the frame and
rocker panel.Trim off any excess
adhesive as necessary with a razor blade or knife that causes misalignment
of the plate with the frame.
the lower plate to the underside of the frame by holding the plate up to
frame so the loose bolt passes through the hole in the lower plate and the
notch in the plate fits around the inner rocker panel lip. The lower plate for the left (driver’s)
side has a relief machined into the face to clear the clutch hose bracket
so slip it between the clutch hose tube and the bracket.You may have to tweak the tube slightly
if it is tight to the lower plate.Be gentle and only move it enough to give clearance between it and
the lower plate.
the flanged locknut onto the bolt and use two ¾” wrenches or one wrench
and a ¾” socket/extension/ratchet wrench combination to tighten everything
into place.An air ratchet or
impact wrench would make this even easier.While tightening the bolt, make sure to keep the plates aligned
with the frame cut off and the rocker panel lip.
installed the plates without the extension pins, thread them on by hand
the car to the floor and carefully position your lift arms under the
forward B lift points and the new lift pins.Start lifting the car slowly and inspect
the lift points at the frame for any misalignment, bending or
flexing.If anything does not look
right, lower the car immediately and correct the problem.
you are sure everything is correct, lift the car to a normal overhead
height and do a thorough walk around under the car to establish that the
lift points are secure.This may
also be a good time to do a check of the engine compartment as well as a
good time to check the torque of the rear links.
you are satisfied with the inspection, pick up your under tray and slip it
into position under the engine compartment.I find it easiest to slip the cutouts
for the rear wheels over my lift pads and slip the rear lip of the
under-tray under the forward edge of the rear diffuser, then push the
under-tray rearward until it contacts the extension pins.Now slide the tray up and forward so its lip slips into the channel in the chassis and then press
the tray up to the two center mounts and loosely install the two hex
headed (Allen) screws.Install all
the small bolts around the edges and tighten them in place and lastly
tighten up to two center screws.
the car and if you are intending to remove the extension pins remove them
at this time and put them in a secure place.
now on it is simply a matter of placing the lift arms under the pins and
forward lift points and raising the car.If you are intending to use the lift points with a floor jack or
jack stands, be sure to not lift the car at large angles to the extension
pins.Having the pins tilting on
your jack saddle will impart a twisting force to the extruded frame that
may cause frame distortion.Carefully monitor the frame extensions when using a jack and stop
before you damage anything.
NOTE: I was just reviewing the prints on the parts and there
is an incorrect dimension listed for both of the lower plates. The dimension
listed for locating the 9/16" hole from the edge should be 2.25" and
not 2.125". 2.125" is the correct dimension for both of the upper